None of the testing cars have roll center adjusters.
Here is the final production version of the MAX Solid Subframe Risers track tested and in production NOW.
Alot of people think you need a press to do this but its near impossible because the thin metal on the subframe around the outside of each bushing will easily become distorted. You can do it with an air saw, you poke the sawblade in the cavity in the OEM bushing and cut a slit in the outer ring OF THE BUSHING being careful not to cut the subframe ring. It helps to saw a little from the top side and a little from the bottom side. Once the slit is cut shove a big flat head screw driver in there and once the tension of the bushing's outer ring is compromised, it just pops right out. To prepare for the epoxy you want to sand the surface.
Mix epoxy - When you buy some the thicker viscosity the better. The brand and type are not important as long as it is made to bond to metal.
The Risers slip right in by hand and are secured permanently with epoxy
You have to beat the unibody here... especially if you dont have MAX GII camber arms. You also have to redo the e-brake cable routing bracket.
With this second version of the solid riser the bottom part is half as thick so you can slice off the extra threads that are no longer needed so you have more dirt drop ground clearance in case your wheel slips off the track.
The half thickness in the bottom part of the rizer also really helps if you are trying to use a straight toe rod on a really low car. Of course if you are on top of your game you already have the MAX GII bent toe rod = )
We should have these on or around march 25th you can pre order now if you wish to reserve a set They are only $100 plus shipping for a set of 4.