Go to page       >>  
Moderators: Parts Shop Max, Dan at MAX USA
Author Post
Dan at MAX USA
Tue Jun 30 2009, 05:21PM

Registered Member #2
Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 01:28PM

Posts: 2866
We are jigging up for some rear knuckles.
Planned features:
~100% machined steel - no casting components
~drop spindle
~pillowball replacements for all bushings
~improved strength
~independent hydrobrake caliper bracket

as some of you know I destroyed my OEM rear knuckle which is some motivation for this, that and I think its a badass part to make.

the carnage



the Jig in process

The limiting factor of how much we can raise the spindle to drop the car seems to be the interaction between the RUCA arm and the axle boot.
Our current RUCA arm is upswept already especially designed for lowered cars so if you even try to do a drop spindle on someone elses RUCA your pretty much f@cked.

we disconnected the coilover and jacked up the wheel all the way to take a look at the most extreme clearance situation:



And then we put it back to a normal suspension compression and measured again



It seems like 3/4" drop spindle is the happy medium because it looks like half an inch is totally safe and 1 inch is the max.
with the half inch subframe risers its already a big difference so this should be a great mod for suspension performance on extra low cars.

If we wanted to take it farther we would have to sweep the arm up on the RUCA more or get a custom slim boot for the axle, but I'm betting as is its going to make a huge difference without going any farther.

[ Edited Tue Jun 30 2009, 05:46PM ]
Back to top
JZS14
Wed Jul 01 2009, 04:46AM
Registered Member #562
Joined: Fri May 29 2009, 04:25PM

Posts: 5
Looks awesome. I love the way you guys make your own stuff in house

But how an earth did you break the rear knuckle??

Driftworks over here in the UK, have been working on some re-designed front and rear knuckles


[ Edited Wed Jul 01 2009, 04:46AM ]
Back to top
Dan at MAX USA
Wed Jul 01 2009, 09:35AM

Registered Member #2
Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 01:28PM

Posts: 2866
I guess im just that manly. There was not any crash.
There has been a couple of articles in DT about broken rear knuckles in the same place.

a few of questions about those:

1 they look to be thinner where the hub bolts on, and thinner material than stock around the bushing
2 they use bushings not pillowballs right?
3 What distance to they raise the hub
4 it looks like the stock relationship between the top and bottom arms was not maintained, the coilover mount and the LCA were moved down in addition to the hub moving up
5 How much are they

[ Edited Wed Jul 01 2009, 09:40AM ]
Back to top
JZS14
Wed Jul 01 2009, 12:57PM
Registered Member #562
Joined: Fri May 29 2009, 04:25PM

Posts: 5
The original thread is here,
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/driftworks-shop/81334-driftworks-hubs.html
video here
http://www.vimeo.com/3871773

2. yea they use bushings on the hub end
3. i think the front is raised 45mm and 50mm rear
5. dont know about price, dont think a price has been released yet.

They look like they are working pretty damn well. iirc He's run them in his 2JZ S15 for 2 seasons now


Dan at MAX USA wrote ...

I guess im just that manly. There was not any crash.
There has been a couple of articles in DT about broken rear knuckles in the same place.

a few of questions about those:

1 they look to be thinner where the hub bolts on, and thinner material than stock around the bushing
2 they use bushings not pillowballs right?
3 What distance to they raise the hub
4 it looks like the stock relationship between the top and bottom arms was not maintained, the coilover mount and the LCA were moved down in addition to the hub moving up
5 How much are they

Back to top
JankiS13
Wed Jul 01 2009, 01:35PM
Registered Member #499
Joined: Tue Feb 17 2009, 04:26PM

Posts: 94
Looks cool.

So you're moving the hub up in the knuckle so you raise the roll center?

I really like the idea of a separate caliper bracket for a hydro e-brake. However, you should also make extensions for this for people who upgrade rotor size.

[ Edited Wed Jul 01 2009, 01:37PM ]
Back to top
Dan at MAX USA
Thu Jul 02 2009, 01:00PM

Registered Member #2
Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 01:28PM

Posts: 2866
The concept that is presented in the video (1:07), as pointed out on the front spindle is sound and simple,
"by moving the spindle up without changing any of these geometry points..." (you lower the car without fu@king up the geometry plain and simple.)
However it appears that the same simple logic may not be used in the creation of their rear knuckle because the lower arm appears moved down in addition to the spindle moving up. Please correct me if im wrong.

I dont think the rear axle is raised up 50mm, it looks to be around 30mm no more than 35mm. Maybe the car is lowered by 50mm because some of that is from dropping the coilover/lca mount and some is moving the hub up but from my observations above you would be hard pressed to move the axle and its boot up more than 25mm before it hits our arm, and to my knowledge no ones RUCA is upswept like ours so im thinking its not possible to move the axle up said 50mm and maintain clearance with conventional axle boots and RUCA.

The relationship between the rear arms at the knuckle attachment points should probably not be moved or it will change the path the wheel dives under suspension travel.

Our 330mm rotors come with caliper brackets

[ Edited Thu Jul 02 2009, 01:02PM ]
Back to top
Ofc. Dangle
Fri Jul 03 2009, 09:48PM
Registered Member #429
Joined: Fri Sep 12 2008, 02:57PM

Posts: 57
I fucking love you guys. No homo. Super sick.
Back to top
JankiS13
Mon Jul 06 2009, 02:35PM
Registered Member #499
Joined: Tue Feb 17 2009, 04:26PM

Posts: 94
Yeah, I'm saying for the hydrocaliper bracket. Those would need to be extended too.

Looks boss. You think these will weight less than a stock upright?

I've always wanted to have all pillow-ball bushing in the rear.

[ Edited Mon Jul 06 2009, 02:36PM ]
Back to top
Dan at MAX USA
Mon Jul 06 2009, 03:01PM

Registered Member #2
Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 01:28PM

Posts: 2866
I really dont know, we will be using denser metal to prevent snapage though.
Back to top
JankiS13
Mon Jul 06 2009, 03:53PM
Registered Member #499
Joined: Tue Feb 17 2009, 04:26PM

Posts: 94
Works for me. Better suspension geometry will probably pay bigger dividends in performance compared to a few pounds.
Back to top
Go to page       >>   

Jump:     Back to top

Syndicate this thread: rss 0.92 Syndicate this thread: rss 2.0 Syndicate this thread: RDF
Powered by e107 Forum System