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Sideways_In_SD
Sat Aug 22 2009, 02:24am
Registered Member #6
Joined: Sun Feb 04 2007, 06:30pm

Posts: 138
danegerous wrote ...

Wait wait...so the hydrobrake will have it's own caliper?

Not sure if I'm reading this correctly but jeeeezuss if it is.


Yeah boyeee, race-car status!
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fran
Sat Aug 22 2009, 02:20pm
Registered Member #45
Joined: Wed Apr 11 2007, 11:39am

Posts: 52
i saw a rear knuckly article in the new drift tengoku mag..i'll bring it in so martin can translate
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irax
Thu Aug 27 2009, 07:40pm
Registered Member #10
Joined: Wed Feb 14 2007, 02:16am

Posts: 259
yes, a caliper mount bracket JUST for hydro brake
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Dan at MAX USA
Thu Aug 27 2009, 08:00pm

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Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866
martin said almost every FD team car has dual real calipers
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danegerous
Fri Aug 28 2009, 06:04pm
Registered Member #52
Joined: Wed May 02 2007, 08:15pm

Posts: 199
JTP saw my PSM Hydrobrake back in like May and was like I don't even have one of those. It was pretty funny
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WishIHadaSilvia
Sat Sep 05 2009, 05:59am
Registered Member #595
Joined: Thu Aug 13 2009, 05:40pm

Posts: 26
I understand the point of making a rear knuckle for strength and the separate ebrake caliper, but to correct roll center it would be better to make a new lower control arm.

There are not any really good LCAs available (front and rear). None of them are catered to extremely low cars, they just don't adjust far enough to make a big difference. You would also be able to adjust the track.

If you guys made some LCAs with nice spherical bearings and heim joints I would be extremely interested in a set. I'd rather buy nice ones then start welding up my own, but I may end up doing it this winter.
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Dan at MAX USA
Sat Sep 05 2009, 05:25pm

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Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866
I think we should do both.
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WishIHadaSilvia
Sat Sep 05 2009, 06:45pm
Registered Member #595
Joined: Thu Aug 13 2009, 05:40pm

Posts: 26
Oh definitely. That way your FLCAs are designed in a way to work with your super angle knuckles/super angle knuckles in general (ie not get hit by them). They could be made to work specifically with your rear knuckles as well. I mean I would buy the knuckles just to get the spherical bearing replacement on all of the arms, and I would definitely get your control arms if they could adjust roll center enough (you need a good 2-3" of adjustment I think).


Just be sure if you do control arms that you use an inclosed spherical bearing for the joint that mounts to the spindle instead of a heim joint. It would put the rod end in bending at that location (but it is fine on the inside mounting part by the subframe).


An easy way to go for the control arms would be to just pick up a bunch of nice spherical bearings (QA1, Aurora, something like that) and weld in housings for them and make a bolt that has the right taper for our spindles. They make lots of stuff like this for stock cars, but nothing in our taper. Here's a website with the different parts on it that you would need to completely replace the ball joint:

http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=2561



I was going to go with the parts from that page and just get the spindle bored out to the Chevy taper, or get a straight bolt and drill out the taper all together. It would not be as strong or secure but I doubt it would fail so long as you had a strong enough bolt. Then just take out the ball joint, weld in the bearing housing, press the bearing in, slap a c-clip in there and bolt it up. This could be done on a stock control arm pretty easily with just some reinforcing and you could put a heim joint on the other end like the kit battle version offers.
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JankiS13
Tue Nov 03 2009, 09:32pm
Registered Member #499
Joined: Tue Feb 17 2009, 11:26pm

Posts: 94
Any updates on this?
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Dan at MAX USA
Wed Nov 04 2009, 03:30am

Registered Member #2
Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866
unfortunately we are relying on our machine shop friend for this job which is going very slow!
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