Everyone has a lot of fun in the pits with my choppered out scooter. You want a frame or what exactly? The dirt blke stuff is chain drive whereas this thing is a CVT built into the single sided swingarm...you would have to fab the whole rear half of the scoot to make it work.
think i need to look into making the 50 motor work. reviewing the video you posted it dosent quite look danerous enough lol.. but pm me what you want for a frame and fork kit with those sexy wheels!! thanks dan. ps. if i figure out the 50 set up you'll get one to make jigs of deal ?
is that really going to be better than my 150 with CVT? the frame is $500 and I dont sell the fork. That is a honda ruckus triple tree and head set and NCY shocks/brake/front wheel
here is some pics of the Ti exhaust prototype for the stock ruck.
yeah the clutch set up is terrible. i have an aprilia 50 scoot and its re weighted and piped and re programed. dose max 40 think my goped is still faster than it. never the less the crf50 motor is a beast with a stroker kit in it. would be super fun in something as long as this. with big tires like that. and top speed would be higher as well.
I can see the advantages over the honda 50cc scooter GET motor, but the 150cc Gy6 motor that bolts to my frame does 50mph stock and runs $500. Whats the cost of the CRF50 (excluding modifications to make it work in this frame)?
I can see the advantages over the honda 50cc scooter GET motor, but the 150cc Gy6 motor that bolts to my frame does 50mph stock and runs $500. Whats the cost of the CRF50 (excluding modifications to make it work in this frame)?
not sure man personally i would just jack one from one of my little brothers pit bikes for supercross and run it in the scoot. I know like a pre built motor is like 3-5 hundred but those are like 88cc stroker motors and up to 105's so ya. not sure...
oh forgot to mention the 50cc crf motor has the option to be 3 speed with or without a clutch. so you have that going for it as well.
Our scooter harness is currently being revised for 2011 and mass produced. I no longer have the time to hand make the harnesses. It should become available in the next couple of months.
Someone asked by email if its a plug and play type...
I dont believe you should shop for a harness based on its claim to be plug and play. I think you should buy one based on how complete it is, and how easy, and thorough the directions are.
Some plugs make the harness too bulky, some are unreliable, and some things cant be included like the tail light or rectifier because everyone uses something different. The essential plugs are included with my harness like CDI etc. Some things that are fairly complex to research and find out how to wire into the harness are already included and pre-installed into the harness so you don't have to mess with them at all like the 4 into 2 ignition conversion relay and the rectifier for the 2011 model. Furthermore on something that vibrates as much as a GY6, you should solder everything you possibly can for reliability because the last thing you want to do with your life is troubleshoot a wire harness. Its a very straight forward install because each wire is labeled so with my harness you don't even need to look back and fourth at a schematic, you can just bang out the job by looking at each wire's tag and get riding in the least amount of time.
~Made for GY6 motor with stock or aftermarket controls ~Length to accomodate a 7 foot long scooter ~Wires are individually labeled to make install a breeze
Battery box side: Comes with 5 wire 11 pole rectifier installed (this ends the confusion of finding your rectifiers pinout which no one seems to supply) This rectifier is backwards compatible with lesser stators. CDI molex plugs Kill switch spade connection Key switch solder connection "4 into 2" Ignition relay is included and integrated into the harness Battery ring terminal connections Fuse Holders, fuses starter relay 90* ring terminal with cover starter relay molex plug start button spade connectors flasher relay is included and already connected by spade terminal to the harness brake switch solder connection stock left controls solder connection horn spade connectors front lights solder connection
Engine side: 6 wire stator solder connection Autochoke molex plug (should be removed in most peoples opinion) tail lights solder connection coil spade connectors and coil boot starter wire solder connection motor to frame ground with dual ring terminals
What you need to do the job and get to riding: Wire stripper/cutter Electrical tape Zip ties Barrel connectors and a crimper (not recommended) OR Solder, Soldering iron, heat shrink wrap, heat gun (recommended) GY6 150cc long case motor (from scooterworks etc) that comes with with CDI, Carb, Starter with ring terminal and 14" of the stock wire, Starter Relay, Coil, coil wire, sparkplug, also vaccuum pumped fuel delivery and battery to start it up when finished Lights & Horn Stock ruckus key switch Stock or aftermarket left controls *Optional - If you want to eliminate the stock right controls - Momentary switches for start & kill w/ Two spade connectors each can be fitted into the battery box holes where the indicator lights used to be.
We got the AMAZING full titanium mufflers in stock, now we are just waiting on the stainless front pipe production so we can sell the exhaust package! You will be terrorizing your neighbors soon I promise.
Three tip shapes and two colors = Six styles to choose from
You can get Burnt or Natural Brushed Titanium finish. Straight cut tip, Angle cut tip, or Turn Down tip.
The zero oxygen TIG welding quality is insane inside and out!
This is the complete system with all stainless steel header, bracket, springs and hardware.
It also comes with the spring tools not shown here.
Price is $350+sh complete and availability on the full system for 50cc ruckus' is within 1 month.