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Dan at MAX USA

Sat Dec 12 2009, 06:35pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

I guarantee it will be the lowest

chask

Tue Jan 05 2010, 11:25pm

Registered Member #666

Joined: Wed Dec 30 2009, 01:54am

Posts: 185

lolx2^ deff weld it!!

Dan at MAX USA

Wed Jan 06 2010, 09:23pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

lowest genesis ever? Springs have not sagged yet and its tucking half the tire.
At this height the factory toe rod is capable of zero toe and the camber bolt maxes out at 2 degrees.

Maybe you cant tell by this shot but the wheel travel shoots the wheel back in this car so an adjustable traction rod is defenately needed to keep the wheel centered in the wheel well.

new front lower mount integrates brakeline bracket and swaybar mount

New rear upper pillowball mount design helps lower the car

Shorty shock allows lower ride height

shorter 6KG springs help lower the rear more

[ Edited Wed Jan 06 2010, 09:46pm ]

Dan at MAX USA

Sun Jun 06 2010, 06:45pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

Just picked up some dubs
rear

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Dan at MAX USA

Fri Jul 23 2010, 09:16pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

&heightAll five of the rear multilink parts are designed and prototypes are finished. Subframe solid risers too. While we had the subframe out we blinged it with orange metllic and gold pearl paint.

everything was taken out of the car for a measuring session

kaaz 2 way diff installed

we cut and pryed out the OEM subframe bushings to develop solid subframe risers

we cut down the bushing sleeve as far as we can with the air saw and then pry the rest with a screwdriver

We cut this angle on the subframe RUCA tab because the axle hits it when the car is super low

I wanted to show this picture of my bent subframe lower control arm structure because all it took was a speedbump to bend this. You can see that it bent good enough to chip the paint on the stress points. I can just imagine how F'd up this would be if I dirt drop a wheel on the track at speed, so this is all the more reason that the subframe riser is critical on this car besides the geometry and getting rid of the rubber.

Rear Lower Control Arm

Rear Upper Traction Rod

Rear Lower Traction Rod

Rear Upper Control Rod

Rear Toe Rod

Adjustable wheel spacers in 67.1 hub centric bore, 5 lug 1.50 thread

Combines a 15mm bolt on spacer with long studs and three slip on spacers 3mm, 5mm, and 7mm for dialing in the wheel fitment perfectly in 14 combinations up to 30mm wide

Precision machined - Looks fantastic!

Special stud heads with two ears are used as a backup incase the splines ever slip

slimline nuts maximize the amount of aluminum under each nut and also clear the hole for stacking the slip ons

[ Edited Fri Jul 23 2010, 09:43pm ]

Dan at MAX USA

Fri Jul 23 2010, 09:47pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

pic of the subframe painted

...and the parts removed from the front for a measuring session
We will also make tie rods, tie rod angle spacers, bolt on super steering angle knuckle kit, tension rod and front lower control arms

[ Edited Fri Jul 23 2010, 10:14pm ]

Dan at MAX USA

Fri Jul 23 2010, 11:03pm

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

Subframe solid risers spinning in the CNC lathe...

[ Edited Fri Jul 23 2010, 11:04pm ]

Gabes13

Sat Jul 24 2010, 08:16am

Registered Member #462

Joined: Thu Nov 27 2008, 06:10am

Posts: 36

This is looking good!

Marcus

Sun Jul 25 2010, 04:20am

Registered Member #439

Joined: Sun Sep 28 2008, 02:50am

Posts: 103

oh how i want your job.

looks soo siick. cant wait for the gangsta setup

Dan at MAX USA

Sat Jul 31 2010, 01:00am

Registered Member #2

Joined: Sun Jan 21 2007, 08:28pm

Posts: 2866

ha ha I love it

revised toe rod shots showing chromoly taper rod installed, and SFR installation:

Finished Sub Frame Solid Riser prototypes

These are a precision fit but since the subframe has a slight taper, and get bent out of round when removing OEM bushings, we use epoxy to make up for those little inconsistencies. Sand inside subframe for adhesion.

and outside of the subframe solid risers

Mix Epoxy

Install SFR's into subframe cups from the bottom and wipe off excess with wax and grease remover or other solvent (top side view)

Bottom side of subframe view

When you first lift the subframe into place just do it enough to get some threads on

VERY VERY IMPORTANT - you need to cut the front two bolts so that the shank and threads are 4" long.
(without the bolt head) cut with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel (preferable). If you dont cut them the tip will bottom out in the car's metal and strip the threads. (arent you glad you read this first?)

tighten each corner little by little allowing the subframe to go up flat.

You dont have to tap this lip up because the RUCA clears even when the shock hits bumpstop but we did anyhow for good measure

I took this picture to show how the driveshaft has perfect alignment with the diff.

We modded the subframe exhaust mount because the car still has factory exhaust but for those of you with aftermarket exhaust, one of the points of raising the subframe is that you get better exhaust to ground clearance (in addition to better roll center geometry).

This toe rod bracket needs to be cut if you are going to be a super lowrider

[ Edited Sat Jul 31 2010, 01:32am ]

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